Sharpura Bagh

Cathy relaxing by the pool 

Outdoor bar by the pool

Gathering Greens for our dinner (Notice the Turban)

Main Gate to Sharpura Bagh

Shaving by Kerosene Lantern

That's a straight razor, be careful!

Dinner (Lamb - called mutton in India)

We left Fort Begu, and drove to Sharpura Bagh. In 1947 India was not a united country. It was made of hundreds of Kingdoms and Principalities. We had stayed at Fort Begu, an ancient Palace of the Kingdom of Begu. We were heading to another: Shahpura Bagh is the residence of the rulers of Shahpura. This estate is immaculate. We arrived around 2pm, settled in and then went out to read and relax by the pool. The service (and the wifi) are top notch. They only have 7 rooms. It is very intimate, but not crowded. The estate is run on all kinds of ecological and sustainable principles. They grow much of their own food, they have solar hot water, etc. The ruler of Shahpura actually mortgaged all his property to create lakes in the region for the villagers and farmers. They are a very enlightened family.

The family lives in an adjoining villa. Because these formerly rich rulers lost the income from their estates at the time of Indian Independence, they needed to turn their properties into income producing hotels. This was one of them. We met the ex-royals and his parents and uncle in their villa before dinner was served. It is weird, they were gracious but I can’t help but wonder what they think of different strangers coming to their house to stay each night.

I decided to have my beard trimmed and asked the manager where in the city of Sharpura I could go. He said his son was a barber, I should go to the gate of the Palace, and he would arrive on a motorcycle. He showed up and I hopped on the back and we drove to his shop. We entered the shop and it was pitch black. I am thinking is he going to be using a straight razor on me in dark? No one is that good. Several of his associates gathered around and turned on the lights of their cell phones. I thought this was crazy. No way was he coming near me in that light. Then someone brought in a kerosene lantern and lit it. Definitely more light than from the phones but still I was wondering, is it time to say never mind (oh Hindi don’t fail me now)? Eventually the lights came on, there must have been a power shortage (not an unknown thing in India) and he expertly trimmed my beard. I hopped back on his motorcycle and returned to our palace. I asked him what do I owe you? He said whatever I felt. I gave him 200 rupees. I don’t know if thought I was cheap or generous.

We continued to read at the pool. At about 5pm when the desert chill arrived we retreated to our room and prepared for drinks and dinner. We returned to the outside bar by the pool where we were warmed by braziers that were extremely efficient. We met a very interesting couple from England, and had drinks and eventually dinner with them and exchanged cards. The conversation was fun. Usually we don’t meet people we relate to; but these people were enjoyable. The dinner was held in the adjacent villa of the ex-royal family. Their family had apparently lived here forever, although these two houses date back to only the 1880’s. We enjoyed the food conversation and experience.

One thing I have never mentioned that I wanted to is the men in Rajasthan really wear turbans. You see them everywhere, especially among the older men. I don’t know if the younger crowd as they get older will start wearing them. But right now it is typical and you see men wearing turbans everywhere.

Although the room had heat, when we hopped into bed, they had placed hot water bags under the blankets to warm the sheets. Very nice touch.

This is another special residence in Rajasthan.